Guests were welcomed with platters of oven-fresh pesto pizza, followed by a bounty of greens that included mache and watercress, alongside shredded celeriac and grapefruit pieces. Next up were roasted garden asparagus and boiled eggs from the Pauline chicken coop, served with aioli.

An important part of this evening was a tasting of three of Randy Nathan’s wines:  an ‘09 “Cuvee” Rhone Blend, an ‘08 Sangiovese and, coming directly from the barrel, his ‘08 Mourvedre blend, to round out the dinner and contribute to the evening’s liveliness.

The complex and flavorful “Dirty Rice” dish featured ground lamb (and roasted peppers), again from their own production. To top it off, a Meyer lemon sorbet finished the meal with notes of lavender and those who stayed long enough were treated to a taste of his home-made port.

Their passion and dedication to quality palpable, Sidney and Randy have been true “Slow Fooders” for a long time, dividing their time between the gardens and restaurant. With the help of their phenomenal staff, they keep exploring and adding to an already well tested recipe: grow what you want to eat, serve what’s in season and enjoy what California has to offer. Pauline’s Pizza (and Wines) continues to impress and surprise and the convivial table we shared did no less.

It’s difficult to even imagine topping the slow feast offered up at Slow Club on Thursday evening February 25th, but I honestly felt our hosts did just that with their genuine conviviality. Together, Owner Erin Rooney and Chef Matthew Paul provided Convivial Table with an experience that will be remembered and re-savored by all our diners for a long time to come. It was truly that special.

I won’t even attempt to describe the food beyond saying that it was abundant, inspired, varied, and delicious. There was soup, appetizers, antipasto platters, two separate salads preceding a choice of entrees and desserts. Without saying as much (he didn’t need to) the message emanating from Chef Matt was clear: “I love what I do, and I’m eager to share as much of it as I can with you.”

Before the meal even began, both Erin and Matt circled the table and personally introduced themselves to every guest. Each conveyed a commitment to making the evening special for us. As the different platters of food arrived, Matt was there to explain each element to our attentive group of diners. He discussed his sources, reasons for pairing specific ingredients, and complete explanations of individual preparations. “I roast the sunchokes in a hot oven for about fifteen minutes to bring out their natural sugars and begin caramelization,” he explained, to an appreciative guest, “and then switch them to a lower over for another fifteen to twenty five minutes. But less firm vegetables only get the high heat. They’re in and out quickly or they’ll turn mushy.”

These sort of exchanges went on throughout the evening. But it wasn’t just Matt’s depth of knowledge that was so impressive, it was his easy smile and willingness to share anything he could to accommodate. Before the night was through, he was promising “I’m here five nights a week, often six. Come back again. Say hello. Ask more questions. I’ll do my best.” That same sense of hospitality was echoed by Erin.

I read a poll recently that asked diners why they return to a particular restaurant. Cuisine, price, quality, ambiance, and location were all mentioned, but by far the number one answer was personal attention: “they make me feel welcome,” “they know me,” or “they treat me like family.”

I was acutely aware the following day that I’m already looking forward to a return visit to Slow Club. The food is delicious and reasonably priced. The room is stylish and inviting, plus, we really must appreciate any hip San Francisco restaurant where it’s easy to park nearby. I love that they are committed to fighting the good fight; sourcing locally and sustainably whenever possible. And I appreciate their continual support of Slow FOod San Francisco, so there are ample reasons to go back. But it occured to me that the number one reason I’m looking forward to returning is, guess what, they made me feel welcome. There is much to be said for superior customer service.

I heartily recommend a visit to Slow Club. You might even mention that Slow Food sent you. They’ll feed you well and treat you right. (But no, we’re not related.)

http://www.slowclub.com/ for more.

On Thursday evening, February 4, Hayes Street Grill welcomed approximately fifty diners to a noticeably expanded Slow Food San Francisco Convivial Table. The dazzling spread of fresh, local, and sustainable seafood included Dungeness crab, sardines, squid, oysters, opah (moonfish), clams, and ling cod supplemented by outstanding local produce in classic preparations. Rather than focus on this wonderful meal, however, there was another, more important reason we gathered.

Halfway through the feast, Paul Johnson rose from the table and asked for our attention. Paul is a knowledgeable authority and respected advocate for sustainable seafood. He is the founder and proprietor of Monterey Fish Market, the prize winning author of Fish Forever, and an adviser to the “FishWise” program. When he speaks, it is with the heartfelt passion of a lifetime sea lover who has witnessed the tragedy of our oceans and waterways in steady decline. His message this evening centered on three specific points; rampant pollution of our waters (much of this by large scale confined animals operations in the meat and dairy industries-read Nicolette Hahn Niman’s Righteous Porkchop for more), over fishing (sacrificing long term sustainability for short sighted greed), and the increase of farm raised fisheries who simultaneously pollute waterways and endanger wild species. Like many sustainable food advocates, Paul suggested we ask more questions about where our food comes from. In particular, he implored us to support the dwindling breed of independent small boat fishermen-the seagoing equivalent of family run farms. His casual presentation was both enlightened and stimulating. Before returning to his seat, Paul introduced us to a leading local fisherman; Larry Collins.

Larry and his wife, Barbara, have fished out of San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf for a quarter century-primarily for Dungeness Crab and California King Salmon. He too is a passionate and articulate speaker who has sat before numerous government bodies to advocate on behalf of responsible fishing practices. He shared some of his experiences and lamented the sorry state of local salmon fishing (closed two consecutive seasons and counting). Sadly, there is a long list of ill-advised practices which has led to this predicament. The salmon, though, are simply a high profile example of the countless problems facing those dedicated to preserving the waterways and their inhabitants. Larry’s closing message was to remind us that the rivers, streams, oceans, and the many creatures who live therein, do not belong to the government-or to the corporations who selfishly pollute and abuse them. They are ours to protect-and he asked for our help in doing so.

There are numerous restaurants and markets who follow the guidelines of independent groups such as FishWise. We ask you to become more aware of which seafood choices have been caught in an environmentally conscious and sustainable manner. Please seek out the establishments who follow these guidelines-or ask more questions at your favorite businesses. If we don’t make better choices today, we won’t have them to make tomorrow.

Get the information you need to make those choices with fishwise.org.

On Tuesday evening, January 12, the Slow Food SF Dinner Club was treated to a memorable evening at Spork Restaurant on Valencia.

Owner and chef Bruce Binn’s concept for this transformed former KFC space has been to maintain a “Classic American” menu – but at the other end of the spectrum from fast food. The cooking at Spork is slow, considered, time consuming, and utterly delicious.

Our meal was so inspired and so personal that it was easy to imagine that we were the only guests that mattered – until we looked around and noticed that, even on arainy Tuesday evening in mid-January, every table was filled with equally happy diners. Apparently they perform this magic on a regular basis.

On some level, this is the kind of food you may have grown up with – that is if your mom (or dad) just happened to be an extremely talented and passionate chef with access to only the best and freshest ingredients and a professional kitchen. Oh and plenty of time, and maybe an assistant or three.

Our little gathering of diners was fairly special too – and well represented. We included two members from Slow Food Berkeley, one from Slow Food Alameda, a professional sommelier, a Washington State resident in town on business, and a recently transplanted Southern California member now living in St. Helena. As an added treat, we were joined by our beloved Slow Food San Francisco founder and leader, Lorenzo Scarpone – who just so happened to have a couple bottles of fine Italian wine to share.

All in all, it’s difficult to imagine a nicer evening. Our sincere thanks to Bruce and his outstanding team (by the way – the service was equally exceptional) and to all our guests.

And in case anyone was wondering – forks and spoons throughout the meal, but dessert was served with a spork.

They buy whole or half animals and break them down themselves-by hand, using only a hand saw, a meat cleaver, and a boning knife-the way it used to be done. It’s not about nostalgia though, it’s to provide better tasting, healthier food. Hand carving allows the butchers to not only produce the most commonly recognized cuts, but also to channel their own creativity, offering a pleasing variety of options to more adventurous cooks. It also allows them to fill special requests. But there’s more.

The vast majority of meat consumed today is raised on commercial feedlots where animals are overcrowded and fattened quickly on an unhealthy diet. The feed is then supplemented by large doses of antibiotics and other chemicals to combat inevitable disease. After processing, the carcasses are quickly broken down in large facilities, vacuum sealed, and then shipped across the country. Sealing the meat in plastic for easy shipping is commonly referred to as “wet aging.” This clever terminology, a reference to “dry aging,” is intended to fool consumers into believing the process enhances the meat. It doesn’t.

Dry aging is the process of hanging the carcass from a meat hook and allowing it to air dry in a controlled climate for around two to three weeks. Hanging allows the muscles to relax and the meat to tenderize naturally. In addition, the meat steadily loses moisture (up to 20% of its original weight). Similar to a reduced sauce, this loss of moisture enhances the flavor of the meat.

In the case of the less venerable wet aging, the moisture is contained inside the plastic. Since meat is sold by the pound, avoiding this weight loss prevents money loss (one reason dry aged meat will inevitably cost more). What it does lose is flavor. Where dry aging improves the taste of meat, wet aging does the opposite. Like any other foods in your refrigerator or freezer, the longer meat sits around in plastic, the more the flavor is compromised.

Top quality meat-like the kind you find at Avedano’s-begins with humanely raised animals that are provided ample space to roam, eat naturally, and grow at a normal rate without the use of antibiotics, hormones, or other dietary supplements. Handling methods are chosen to maximize flavor rather than profit. Ultimately, this meat will cost more than the conventional alternative, however, it will not only taste considerably better, it’s also dramatically better for the animals, the environments, and for the health of the consumers. Balancing these benefits against market rates while taking into account the subsidies that supply the unhealthy feed on feedlots, the true cost of meat is often obscured.

On Sunday morning, December 6th, a group of sixteen Slow Food members were treated to a personal tour of this forward-thinking shop, so steeped in history. We gathered in the work area with an assortment of cutting tools dangling nearby. As co-owner Melanie Eisemann explained her store’s mission and practices, veteran butcher David Budworth (well known around town and on-line as Dave the Butcher) skilfully broke a lamb joint down into chateaubriand and other smaller but equally eye catching cuts. Together they talked and taught, told stories, answered questions, laughed, and imparted the love of what they’re doing.

And this love isn’t just about meat. The market is proud to offer outstanding sustainable seafood, delicious prepared foods, dairy, produce and other grocery items (many from terrific small local producers and even a few imported specialties). They also cater private parties and even offer butchery and other classes, taught by knowledgeable pros including the engaging “Dave-the” himself.

People living nearby feel lucky to have them in the neighborhood, but Avedano’s is well worth the trip even for those who live further away. Make an afternoon of it-discover the friendly neighborhood of Bernal Heights and the pleasures of Avedano’s Holly Park Meat Market.

Sunday December 6 10am, Tour of Avedano’s Meat Market in Bernal Heights. Free.

Tuesday January 12 7pm, Dinner at Spork Restaurant in the Mission District.

With more in the works for the spring. As always, we hope to see you there.

As a member of Slow Food San Francisco, you are automatically a member of the Dinner
Club – so we invite you to join us at an upcoming outing. To purchase tickets for
the dinners, you must provide the discount code which has been sent in the “members
only” emails. Contact information is also provided if you have questions or
difficulty. By the way, we’ll be adding other free gatherings such as our recent
tour of the Bi-Rite Creamery.

On Wednesday, November 4, the Dinner Club convened at Delfina Restaurant on 18th
Street. Chef Craig Stoll has earned widespread acclaim by matching the finest fresh
ingredients with superb skill in the kitchen. The result is uncommonly flavorful
food which strikes a perfect balance between simplicity and elegance.

Our specially designed menu featured four courses beginning with a Salad of Tossed
Greens and a Basket of Fennel Seed Flatbread with Salt Cod Spread. This was followed
by what might best be described as a perfect bowl of pasta; Mint Tagliatelle with
Fresh Porcini and Wild Nettles. The restaurant is currently offering white truffle
shavings for an added charge (though all diners in the vicinity are treated to the
enticing aroma for free). Craig stopped by to do the truffle honors and also
explained how the porcini mushrooms were the recent find of a foraging friend. He
added that the wild nettles are grown by another preferred purveyor in Bolinas and
then conceded that the not so secret ingredient in the pasta sauce was butter. “Lots
of butter” he smiled.

The next course featured a choice between Whole Roasted Tai Snapper, Pozzi Farm Pork
Arista, or Roasted Liberty Duck - each accompanied by delicious seasonal sides. By
chance, our table of six was divided two, two, and two by the offerings – but united
in agreement that each entrée was delightful. For dessert we chose between
Profiteroles filled with Espresso Gelato or Panna Cotta with Pomegranate Caramel.
Craig dropped by once again to talk with us about many of the friendships he has
built over the years with local growers and the importance they have meant to
Delfina’s success.

Thank you to Craig, May, and everyone else at Delfina for providing us with such a
memorable meal. We hope to see you there at our next meal.

On an exquisite Sunday afternoon (October 25), our blossoming Dinner Club gathered at Bi-Rite Creamery near Delores Park for a taste, a talk, and a tour. Pastry Chef and Co-Owner Kris Hoogerhyde (that’s her in the green t-shirt) met us all outside for an informative chat as we tasted her silky confections. Then we broke into smaller groups as Kris led us into her spatially-challenged kitchen to explain the process of turning premium raw ingredients (such as Straus Family Creamery, among other local favorites) into Bi-Rite’s luscious frozen desserts and assorted pastries.
Next we strolled across 18th Street to meet up with Bi-Rite Market’s General Manager, Liz Martinez.  Liz graciously provided a brief history of this celebrated neighborhood market and explained their commitment to many small Bay Area farmers, ranchers, bakers, cheese and chocolate makers and other food artisans. Bi-Rite prides themselves in forging strong personal relationships with these producers – so they’re sure they know exactly where the food they sell comes from. As an added bonus, multi-talented butcher and chef, Morgan Maki, spoke about his department’s mission and their wide range of choices which include many premium items normally reserved for high end restaurants. If you haven’t already, you really should check out what these people are doing. Bi-Rite is one of the true champions of the local/sustainable food movement. They are also a great friend to Slow Food who continually steps up to help in any way they can. When we called on short notice to ask if they could fill a Dinner Club space for us, they quickly said yes – though requesting, due to space restrictions, we limit our group to 15. Later, when we mentioned we had 20 anxious to attend, they immediately said “no problem – we’ll make it work”. They did – in a big way. What else can we say, but thanks?
It also bears mentioning that we had 20 respondents for this outing – and all 20 showed up, on time. Each and every guest was friendly, patient waiting for turns inside the creamery, and appreciative to our hosts. Thank you members – you’re really making this a pleasure.
Finally, anyone who attended should recognize the unexpected treat rolling up in the U-Haul van just over Kris’s shoulder.

On Tuesday, October 6^th, Slow Food San Francisco kicked off a new program aimed at showcasing some of the local eateries we most admire. The new Slow Food Dinner Club will allow Slow Food SF’s membership the chance to co-mingle with each other as well as meet many of the best chefs, sommeliers, and restaurateurs in the Bay Area. We plan to feature one or two casual get-togethers each month at a wide variety of our favorite spots. Each time, the chef or other principal will personally explain some of the restaurant’s menu and preparations, discuss where they source many of their local ingredients, and answer questions.

The good folks at Ramblas Tapas Bar on Valencia near 17^th in the Mission District promised to get us off to a memorable start – and then proceeded to exceed even our loftiest expectations. Award Winning Chef Ed Vigil joined us at the table to present and explain each of his five deliciously inspired courses, plus an additional amuse-bouche. Each seasonal selection (featuring local favorites such as organic padrone peppers from Riverdog Farm in Yolo County, corn and squash from Bolinas, organic eggs from Glaum Ranch in Aptos, local seafood, and celebrated Becker Lane Pork of Iowa) was also paired with a specially chosen wine. For the modest charge of $40 per person ($50 with wine pairings) which included tax, tip, and a $5 donation to Slow Food SF, guests were treated to a bargain as well as a feast.

Our table of ten included six individuals and two couples – none of whom knew each other at the outset – enjoying relaxed and easy conversation. Before the evening was through, the entire group was exchanging emails and making plans for follow-up get-togethers. And all are looking forward to future Dinner Clubs.

None of this would have been possible without the amazing food, warm hospitality, and outstanding service offered by the Ramblas Team. We heartily encourage all our friends and members to check them out. Also, be watching for another Dinner Club evening at Ramblas’ sister establishment; ThirstyBear on Howard Street, coming in early 2010. Thank You – Thank You – Thank You – RAMBLAS.